Gongfu brewing guide and times

Gongfu brewing uses a small pot or gaiwan (100–150 ml), a lot of leaf (about 1 g per 15–20 ml, so 5–7 g in a 100 ml gaiwan), a quick rinse, and very short infusions: start around 10–20 seconds and add 5–10 seconds each round. One measure of leaf gives 6–10 or more cups.

What gongfu brewing is

Gongfu cha roughly means “making tea with skill and effort”. It is the traditional way of brewing oolong and pu-erh in southern China and Taiwan. Instead of a little leaf steeped for minutes, you use a lot of leaf for seconds, and repeat. Each small cup tastes different as the leaves open, so you follow the tea through its whole arc.

What you need

Gongfu brewing times table

Gongfu starting points (100 ml gaiwan)
TeaLeafWaterRinse1stAdd per roundInfusions
Rolled oolong (Tieguanyin, Taiwanese high mountain)6–7 g95 °C (203 °F)yes, 5 s20 s+5–10 s6–10
Roasted / Wuyi oolong (Da Hong Pao)6–7 g100 °C (212 °F)yes, 5 s10 s+5 s6–10
Ripe (shou) pu-erh6–8 g100 °C (212 °F)yes, twice10 s+5–10 s8–15
Raw (sheng) pu-erh6–7 g90–95 °C (194–203 °F)yes5–10 s+5 s8–15
Black tea (Dian Hong, Keemun)4–5 g90–95 °C (194–203 °F)optional10–15 s+5 s5–8
White tea (Bai Mudan, Shou Mei)5 g85–95 °C (185–203 °F)optional20 s+10 s6–8
Green tea3–4 g75–80 °C (167–176 °F)no15–20 s+5–10 s3–5

These are starting points. More leaf means shorter steeps; less leaf means longer. If the first cup is too strong, don’t throw out the leaf: just pour faster next time.

Step by step

  1. Warm everything. Pour boiling water through the gaiwan, pitcher and cups, then discard.
  2. Add the leaf. Weigh it; rolled oolong should cover the bottom of the gaiwan generously.
  3. Rinse (for oolong and pu-erh): pour water over the leaf, wait 5 seconds and pour it away. This starts opening tightly rolled or compressed leaf.
  4. First infusion. Pour water over the leaf, lid on, count the seconds, then pour all of it out into the pitcher. Hold the lid slightly ajar as a strainer.
  5. Serve from the pitcher into the cups.
  6. Repeat, adding a few seconds each round, until the tea tastes thin. Late infusions of pu-erh can go to a minute or more.

How to read the leaf

Look at the leaves after each round. Rolled oolongs slowly unfurl into whole leaves; when they have fully opened, the tea is usually at its fullest. If the cup suddenly turns flat and watery, double the time once. If that still doesn’t help, the leaf is done.

Common mistakes

Gongfu vs. western brewing

Western brewing uses roughly 1 g per 60–80 ml for 2–5 minutes. Gongfu uses three to five times as much leaf for seconds. Neither is more “correct”. Western-style gives a large, steady cup; gongfu gives a sequence of small, intense and changing cups, and usually more total tea from the same leaf. For western-style numbers, see the brew guides and the calculator.

Is gongfu stronger in caffeine?

Each small cup can be concentrated, and you drink many of them, so a long session can add up to a fair amount of caffeine. Pace yourself, or move to lighter late infusions as the session goes on. More about how caffeine behaves over several infusions in resteeping tea.

Frequently asked questions

How much tea for gongfu brewing?

About 1 g per 15–20 ml of vessel size: 5–7 g in a 100 ml gaiwan for oolong or pu-erh, a little less for green and black tea.

How long are gongfu brewing times?

Very short: start at 10–20 seconds and add 5–10 seconds for each new infusion.

Do you need a gaiwan for gongfu?

A gaiwan is the simplest tool, but any small teapot of 80–150 ml with a good strainer works.

Should you rinse tea before gongfu brewing?

Yes for rolled oolong and pu-erh: a 5-second rinse opens the leaves. Green and delicate white teas don’t need it.